Home»Free-mo»Timesaver and Inglenook Free-mo Module
Timesaver and Inglenook Free-mo Module
May 15, 2020 my first official meeting with Free-mo guys!
After earning my MMR (Master Model Railroader) I started on a 3×6 N scale modular layout. It was two 3×3 modules that I took to several public shows. The kids enjoyed running the train around the loop – I would sometimes hand them the tethered throttle. I never got the yard installed though I think all the turnouts were made. I still have it and plan to get back to it someday. I really like the size of HO better so when I learned about Free-mo I got excited. The club I had recently joined (both N and HO members) was doing a new T-TRAK layout (they already had NTRAK) and I asked the member making the kits for the base to make me one. After months of nothing I was talking to the HO guy and he said he’d build me a Free-mo base. Within days I had it! I eventually got a used T-TRAK from another member which I started refurbishing before giving it to a new member. And eventually the club stopped using that standard. I still have my first Free-mo module and have made several more!
My first module can be referred to as a “module set”, two physical module bases make up the set, but these two module bases have to be connected to each other in order to work correctly. The center sections lineup with “butt joints” where the rails meet up together. The ends of the set connect to any other Free-mo module using the standards. What I like about building to this standard is I can (and have) connect to modules from Colorado, Utah, California, Nebraska, Washington and others and it just works! With building my 2’x8′ world and connecting with others, I can run 15′ long trains for hours at a time!
The below image shows the track configuration. If you are familiar with the Timesaver by John Allen you will recognize it. Eventually I will have structures as reasons why certain cars go to a certain spot. If you are familiar with an Inglenook, it is on the right side but modified. Not just any old Inglenook but adding dual and narrow gauge track into the mix. Maybe I’ll record a video showing it in action! The Timesaver has a dedicated Climax engine and the Inglenook has a dedicated narrow gauge critter and standard gauge 44 toner with dual couplers on one end. Both can be used as storage tracks when I want to bring a train off the mainline without taking it off the layout.
The mainline has MSS detection but no signals.
This is one of my favorite pictures of the Inglenook yard. One thing really cool about setting up in Evanston is in the afternoon the natural sunlight comes in the large windows making for some great photography. I love the narrow gauge cars vs the standard gauge ones and the shadows the natural sunlight gives.
This module is my first foray into Free-mo. Follow along in the pictures below to see how I built it. While I have extensive construction knowledge, I had a fellow club member build the frames to save me some time. They are 2′ x 4′ boxes. I used alignment pins like on a dining room table so the two would line up perfectly every time. It turns out there is a little play so they line up close then when clamping them together I make sure they are in perfect alignment across all the tracks.
All the turnouts are hand thrown and the frogs are powered by Tam Valley Hex Frog Juicers. It is a single track mainline with MSS detection on the mainline only. As you see the thumbnails below you can read the captions for a short description. If you want to see the images larger you can click on them and scroll through but the captions are just on the thumbnails.
I patterned the new Timesaver off the original one I builtA “clean slate” to work withThe Timesaver is just over 4′ so it will go just a little into the other halfI moved the module to the unfinished basement area to have more room to reach all sides of the moduleThe single track mainline butt joint needs to line up perfectlyUsing 3D printed parts and brass screws help keep the alignment perfectI lay down caulk then spread it even with a 1″ putty knife. I do it similar when gluing the track down.Foam roadbed installed on the mainlineTest fitting the track and where to place the turnouts that go off the mainlineThe mainline butts up perfectly. The brass screws keep the rail from moving.With the turnouts built it’s time to fine-tune where they goGetting the extra track and the turnouts to go in place in the best spotsThis is the #8 off the mainline into the Inglenook Yard. The right is after it’s painted.I use satin Espresso for the tie base color. Espresso is a dark brown color.You can see the frog gaps cut. I put in styrene with CA and after it’s dry cut and file to the shape of the rail. After the track is painted and weathered it’s hard to even see the gaps.After spray painting the turnout I use a piece of wood to clean most of the top of the rail before the paint drys. After it’s dry I use a Bright Boy.The paint is still wet in this shot. I like when the web of the rail is painted. It gives the track a more finished appearance.I file the top of the brass screw which helps clean them ready for soldering the rail to themThese were printed with double track spacingThe screws are in for both sides to line up perfectlyThe screws can be turned in or out slightly so that they are all perfectly at the same heightGetting the foam roadbed glued in place and filling any gapsFinal positioning of the trackAdding feeder wires before installing. I don’t rely on solder joints. Every piece of track has it’s own feeder wire.Positioning the track once moreTrack all glued down for the Timesaver yardWhen installing across the module bases I put a 1/16″ thick metal ruler and laid the rail acrossAfter the rail was soldered to the brass screws I used a thin disk in the Dremel to cut where the modules separateAfter cutting the gaps, removing the ruler and pushing the module back together you can see the gap from the Dremel cut almost goes away for a tight fitI glued in little wood blocks for the ground throwsAnother ground throwTurnout thrown for the train to go leftTurnout thrown for the train to go rightRails line up nicelyAnother view of the rails lining upOverview from the end of the track installedOverview from the front of the track installedAfter it is dry another coat of spray paint to hide the glue and blend things before ballastingThe feeder wires for the Timesaver Yard. Not much yet. I need to do a new shot showing it completed!I designed some laser cut pieces for the loading rampI know it’s a bit blurry but the loading ramp deck even has nail holes lasered into itThe loading ramp. The first structure for the module. It’s on a removable base held by magnets.The color espresso is really close to burnt umberThe three colors I use to mix shades for the different tiesI mix some variations of the three colors to give a wider range of fading in the sunDetail of frog on hand made turnoutTesting the track so farWhen adding ballast, tape is added at the end so it doesn’t fall to the floor and the glue doesn’t drip down the endUsing the 3 colors mixed, the ties are randomly paintedAdding ballast to the straight sections first. The turnouts come later. No need to rush it.Another view of the ballast going downThe ballast soaked with 50/50 water/white glueThe two modules “mated” together for travelingWith the track face-to-face they will be protectedThe wiring has been started so track can be tested with running trainsPart of the fun of Free-mo is being able to work on it with othersWe had a few work sessions to make sure progress was in the right direction With this being my first Free-mo module I wanted to make sure I was doing it right and to the standardsIt is easy to work on the underside when you can put it on it’s side on sawhorsesWhen all the supplies for building a railroad are on one table and not the module it looks quite the messTesting options for how to configure putting in an Inglenook on the other side of the mainline. There needs to be a switching lead as well as the yard tracks.Using templates and actual cars helps visualize the space requiredA simple drawing can help keep in mind the track configuration even if it is a simple oneKnowing how long is needed for each spur (depending on car lengths and number of cars) it is useful to see if there is enough spaceUsing dual gauge templates to see if adding an extra track will workFor these switching puzzles it normally isn’t the width that is the problem but the lengthShould the full dual go in front or behind these turnouts?Figuring out what to do for the switching lead so it doesn’t interfere with the mainlineDo I need to curve it?Having the full dual behind leaves more length for the other tracks but that means making a special 3-way switch which I enjoy doingIf I add another switch I can have a narrow gauge car service the mine headframe and the standard gauge track work for the switching lead and engine storageSeeing if modifying the curved template helpsUpdating the curved templateLayout out the templates – getting close to finalizingFinalizing the Inglenook yard – Standard gauge, Narrow gauge, dual and dual gauge with an escape track for the narrow gauge engineLooking back the other way for access to the mainline as well as the tracks going to the mine headWith the track arrangement settled, just confirming clearances and lengthsI added a narrow gauge coupler to one end of this 44 toner engine so it can switch the narrow and standard gauge carsI used the long length standard gauge coupler so they would both be about the same length and not interfere with one anotherTesting with a narrow gauge carTesting with a standard gauge carNot that they’d be used this way but a dual gauge idler car compared to the locomotiveThe narrow gauge car is diminutive next to a standard gauge carThe dual coupling system works greatSometimes I use a paper template that I’ve modified in Photoshop. Even then it can be just a general guide. I use NMRA gauges to make sure the rails are exactly where they should be.Closer view of the work in progress. The frogs are really close together.Finished 3-way turnout – dual/narrow/standardFiguring out how and where to cut gaps and power the frogs and other railsPlanning out how to lay the sheet cork for the yardThe yard area cleaned off and ready to goLaying out the yellow wood glue. This stuff drys fast!Smoothing out and spreading the glue similar to when I lay tile with mortarUsing a brayer to evenly put pressure along the whole sheet corkI just put the cork where the track will be. You can see it crosses the modules. I cut it with a knife after it dried.Double usage for these magazinesTrain books are also good to use for weights for large flat spacesThe mine head narrow gauge splits from the standard gauge switching leadNarrow gauge turnout for the little engine escape track at the end of the yardWhere the narrow gauge escape track connects to the dual gauge trackThe standard gauge coming off the mainline meeting up with the dual gauge for the yardWith the wood ties added ready for paintingBase coat of paint on the new turnoutsI had this turnout from another project I wasn’t using and it works for the yard. It’s base coat is slightly different but after weathering everything it will all blend in.Before weatheringTaking a break from laying track and weathering the Timesaver YardView from the other directionTesting position of the track with actual carsFirst track glued, testing the narrow gauge escape trackThe Inglenook Yard tracks are glued downTrack work can make quite the messPre-painted strip wood was used to fill in missing ties and a quick coat of spray paint ties things togetherClose-up of the transition off the mainline to the Inglenook YardThe Inglenook Yard has more of a secondary line backwoods feel. The cork is not as high as the foam roadbed and the ballast is more dirt than gravelFlooding the yard with water/glue mixAll the turnouts need to be near the edge because the yard tracks are close together and I didn’t want to have to reach in and knock into carsPiano wire inside a brass rod can be covered with ballast and still work to throw the turnoutDoing it this way can go under multiple tracksTesting the yard with real cars and it works great!Weathering changes the look a lot and I like it!I did one module at a timeI’m learning how to use static grass. More practice needed.More progress on the finishing of the sceneIt’s dramatic what it started as and how it transformsPre-made tufts of weeds are a great detailThings are starting to blend together nicely. The empty space is where the removable mine head will be.The track on the removable board for the mine head. It attaches with magnets for a perfect fit.Meeting again with the guys to test how things are goingGetting the modules lined upConnecting my module to another one for the first time and the first train to cross over them worked perfectlyRunning a train on the new moduleConnecting a module on the other end of mineMore levelingGetting it just rightRunning trains on the modules – ready for prime timeFirst time setting up with a large group – more to come!
